Folk Couture: Fashion and Folk Art

Fashion as art – I love it! “Folk Couture: Fashion and Folk Art” is at the Huntsville Museum of Art until June 26th. The exhibit came from the American Folk Art Museum in New York City where they invited thirteen fashion designers to make “wearable ensembles” based on artworks from the museum’s collection. The results are displayed alongside the art that inspired them.

Each set of artwork and clothing is accompanied by placards with all sorts of interesting information. For example, Gary Graham’s design for this untitled “futuristic indigo and white coatdress ensemble” was inspired by the early 19^th-century loom-woven Ann Carll Coverlet: Blazing Star and Snowballs. It is the earliest American coverlet that is named and dated in the border. It was made by Quakers in Long Island. Graham had his fabric woven on a Jacquard loom (just like the coverlet) at the Rhode Island School of Design. (You can even watch a video of the Jacquard loom at work.) In the design of the fabric he “played with scale to render the stars and snowballs as ‘farther away’ toward the top and ‘closer’ at the bottom” to give it an “upward trajectory, like a comet or spaceship.” I liked that the exhibit also includes some design sketches, material swatches, etc. to give more insight into the design process.

Ann Carll Coverlet: Blazing Star and Snowballs, 1810

Some more of my favorites from the exhibit:

Fabio Costa’s design was inspired by the “Sacred Heart of Jesus” sculpture (c. 1900) 

(behind the ensemble) and a whitework quilt.

Catherine Malandrino’s Handkerchief Dress was inspired by a decorative papercut.

Papercut: Odd Fellows Symbols, 1919

World- renowned Koos van den Akker constructed this gown of original fabric he designed and printed, which reproduces five artworks spanning three centuries from the Museum’s collection, including the Kimono Hanging below. “I paint with fabrics. That’s basically my inspiration.” He also commissioned a film student to document the creation, and you can watch the short video in the gallery. I didn’t get much out of that one though.

Kimono Hanging, 1988

The back of Koos van den Akker’s gorgeous gown, covered with clear sequins

This dress (laser-cut, flower-print patent leather over white Spandex power mesh) 

by threeASFOUR (a trio of designers from Lebanon, Israel, and Tajikistan) 

was inspired by a Quaker star quilt.

Friendship Star Quilt, 1844

Jean Yu's chiffon dress with accents made from straw broom bristles
was inspired by David Alvarez’s sculpture Porcupine, ca. 1981.

Bibhu Mohapatra’s design was inspired by a sailor’s book of tattoo patterns; 

“A result of solitude, the sailor’s imagination and longing for his love 

conjure a beauty from the sea.”

Tattoo Pattern Book, 1873-1910

Ronaldus Shamask’s kite-like creations were inspired by “the innocence of the 

craftsmanship in self-taught artist James Castle’s colored pencil drawing of a 

blue coat.” (A few of the designers ignored the “wearable ensemble” requirement.)

Untitled, early to mid-20^th century

There is another great-looking “fashion as art” exhibit currently at the Gordon Jewish Community Center in Nashville. It ends April 30th. I wish I had known about it when I was right nearby earlier this week. I don't think I'll make it up there again next week, but at least I can enjoy some photos.